Atna Peak (13,860ft)
Route Elevation Gain: 7,300ft
AI3-4, Steep Snow, Alaska Grade II - Keith Hart and party in 1955
Season: Spring/Summer
The North Face of Atna Peak is one of the most striking and beautiful features in the
Wrangell Mountains. The North Face/West Ridge is described in Colby Coombs "Alaska Guide
Book." The guide book gives the ridge a begin rating, but expect thousands of feet of blue alpine
ice and knife ridge snow climbing.
Route Description: The LZ is the same as Rime Peak at 7,000ft on the Nabesna Glacier. A camp
can be made in a maze of crevasses at 8,000ft. Another camp can be made at 12,000ft in the col
between Ahtna and Rime Peak. Gaining this col is very avalanche prone due to wind loading.
Once at the Col gain the west ridge which is composed of classic Alaska alpine ridge climbing
including technical AI 3-4 sections. The ridge may be difficult to gain due to a large bergshrund
that runs across the face and ridge.